客家菜 家乡情

【作者】 本刊编辑部

【摘要】antou， where more attention is paid to how dishes are prepared and presented. The Hakka idea of feasting is mostly meat. Its salt-roasted chicken has been incorporated into Cantonese cuisine as a standard. The origin of bean curd stuffed with a small meatball goes back to the time before the Hakka moved away from the Central Plains. Unlikely as it seems， this famous dish is a variation of jiaozi， but since wheat was hard to come by in South China， the Hakka had to make do with tofu. Like its dialect， the Hakka cuisine has traces of their connection to the landlocked north. The emphasis on meat could be a testament to hard times when meat was a luxury and reserved for only the rarest of occasions. But dishes like pork with salted vegetables have gained popularity across the nation. It is， however， pork tripe stewed chicken， among the Hakka staples， proved to be delicious beyond description. Vegetarians need not despair. Traditionally， much of the Hakka diet is sourced from the earth. It might have been out of necessity， but it has been honed into a culinary art. Tell your host that you prefer a healthy portion of vegetarian food and you’ll be surprised at the variety that will greet you and your palate. Last but certainly not least is Mama’s Red Wine. It is similar to many local Chinese brews but much sweeter. Distilled from sticky rice and well water， it is traditionally brewed by the matriarch of the household. Nowadays there are plenty of brands and they vary slightly in taste. But invariably they remind people of red wine made from grapes. One sip and you will be transported to the land of hospitality where people may have endured much hardship but have retained their friendly nature. 跟海味十足的潮州菜和汕头菜比起来，客家菜显得有些默默无闻。...

【年份】2014

【期号】第4期

【全文挂接】 读秀挂接