客家服饰研究

【作者】 陈金怡

【关键词】 客家 服饰 文化 创新设计

【外文关键词】 Hakke Costume Culture Creative design

【导师姓名】许星

【学位名称】博士

【学位年度】2009

【学位授予单位】暂无

【所属分类】TS941

【录入时间】2009-01-01

【全文挂接】 读秀挂接

【摘要】、客家的传统民俗、客家的精神等方面，而有关客家服饰研究方面的资料则相对较少且不够系统。基于这种研究现状，笔者力求探讨客家服饰的相关问题。 本文主要以广东梅州、河源、韶关，江西赣州，福建长汀等客家密集区为主要调研区域，通过查阅大量文献资料、研究博物馆馆藏实物及在代表性区域进行实地调研，对客家服饰的分类、特点、裁剪制作及装饰工艺等方面进行了系统的梳理，进而对客家服饰的文化审美、意识体现、传承与创新等进行阐述。主要内容如下： （1）客家服饰既保留了中原汉族的传统，又因地制宜，在某些方面加以改革、创新，故此表现出了一定的独特性。客家民系是由中原衣冠士族南迁而来的，其服饰必然与中原汉族服饰具有密切的渊源关系，但客家服饰在形制和文化内涵上又呈现出一种独特的艺术风格，究其原因则是艰苦迁徙、近山而居的生活环境与生活习惯，以及汉族不同民系和少数民族对其不同程度的影响。与广府、福佬的服饰相比，客家服饰与两者既有共性也有差异性，但差异性更明显，主要体现在了面料的选用、色调的搭配、风格的表现等方面，其差异主要是受不同的人文环境、自然地理环境等因素影响而形成。 （2）客家人平日里辛勤劳作，穿着朴素，但他们十分重视传统礼仪，笔者对其民俗节庆的服饰表现进行了深入地探讨，着重对客家礼仪、民俗节庆活动、宗教习俗、消灾祈福等服饰表现进行了详细的阐述，并剖析了客家服饰所体现的更深层次的理念。在重要的节庆、婚庆、祈福、丧葬等活动仪式中，客家服饰多体现出中原文化特征，反映了文化上的保守性。 （3）通过研究客家服装的材料、形制、色彩等，总结了客家服饰具有生态、理性、大众化的思想意识，并体现了客家人素朴自然、实用、模糊、边缘的审美特点。着重从艺术设计理论的视角探讨了客家服饰文化资源的传承与创新，详细分析了客家传统服饰所包含的精神理念对现代设计的启发及借鉴意义，有助于我们更深刻地了解客家服饰所体现的独特文化价值。...

【外文摘要】With a distinctive characteristics, the Hakkas community is the important part of Han ethnic group in China. In the course of the more than 1,000 years migration, the ancestors of Hakka had intercourse with the inhabitant on the way or at the areas reserved for them and absorbed the cultural advantages from the inhabitant. So that the Hakkas have a self-contained features in the language, feelings, customs and ethos of such aspects. In view of the particularity of the Hakkas, many domestic and foreign scholars had great interested in its historical origins, pattern of human geography, folk customs, language and literature, etc. These researches culminated in the birth of Hakka Studies. According to much information, the current studies on the Hakkas are mainly concentrated in the origins, definition and distribution, language, culture, traditional folk customs and spirit, etc. However, it is relatively small and not systematic in Hakkas clothing research. The studies were carried on Meizhou, Heyuan, Shaoguan in Guangdong province, Ganzhou in Jiangxi province and Changting in Fujian province where the Hakkas live in concentrated communities. Basing on lots of literature, many collections from museums and field research at some representative area, the classification, characteristic, production and decoration process of Hakkas clothing are systematic studied, Further more, the aesthetic culture and human consciousness of Hakka clothing .are elaborated at a deeper level. The main content are as follows： (1) The Hakkas change from the aristocrat who used to live in the Central Plains of China but migrated to the South to avoid wars, so their clothing have a close necessarily relationship for each other. On the other hand, because of their living environment and habit, such as arduous migration, living in the mountains, and more or less impact from other people of Han nationality and ethnic minorities, Hakka costume present a unique artistic style in its shape and cultural connotations. Compared with Cantonese and Hoklo, it is showed that there are similarities and differences among the three, but the differences are mainly and distinguished. Hakkas costume, which style is simple, pay attention to the economic and durable, and take cotton and linen as the main fabric colored with blue, gray or black which are the based color for Hakka. The reason for this is mainly due to a different cultural and natural geography environment. Thus, Hakka costume not only retain some Central Plains tradition, but also have some reform and innovation on local conditions, and then form itself peculiarity. (2) Hakkas work hard in ordinary day with simple wearing, but they attach great importance to traditional etiquette, and in the important festivals, wedding, blessing, funerals and other ceremonies, their clothing will exposit more characteristics of the culture of China Proper, reflecting its conservative in the culture. (3) The studies on the materials, shape and color of Hakka clothing show that Hakka clothing have ecological rational and popular ideology, all of these reflect the Hakkas with natural practical blur and marginalized aesthetic feature. From the perspective of the theory of art and design，the inheritance and the innovation of Hakka cultural resources are explained with great emphasis, and the enlightening significance for modern design from the spirit idea embodied in Hakka traditional clothing is analysed in detail, and it will help us to have a deeper understanding the unique cultural values of Hakka clothing....