历史地理视野下岭南服饰文化研究

【外文题名】Historical Geographical Study on Dress in Lingnan

【作者】 许桂香

【关键词】 服饰 历史地理 区域分异 岭南

【外文关键词】

【导师姓名】司徙尚纪

【学位名称】博士

【学位年度】2008

【学位授予单位】暂无

【所属分类】K901.9,O435,K928.6,TS941.12

【录入时间】2008-01-01

【全文挂接】 万方挂接 读秀挂接

【摘要】史特点，以其为研究对象有重要的理论与实践意义。论文研究的主要目的是寻找岭南服饰文化形成的历史地理背景，复原岭南服饰历史文化景观，及这种景观与当时地理环境的关系，以充实历史地理学的研究内容，同时发掘岭南服饰文化的优秀传统，为发展地方文化、经济服务。本论文根据历史地理学、文化地理学、服饰地理学、民俗学等学科的相关理论和方法，以岭南服饰文化的历史演变为经，以岭南服饰与历史地理环境相适应关系为纬，运用文献研究、图表法、历史剖面法、野外考察等研究方法，在资料收集梳理基础上，对岭南历史服饰文化展开研究。所得结论如下：1、岭南服饰文化的形成与发展深受所处的历史自然地理环境、历史人文地理环境因素的影响。历史自然地理环境是人类服饰产生的基本条件，在服饰文化形成初期起重要作用。历史人文地理环境对岭南服饰历史文化的发展起了促进和推动作用，在特定背景下起决定性作用。但只有历史自然地理和历史人文地理环境的有机结合，才为岭南服饰历史文化发生、景观形成、地域分异提供必要基础。2、岭南服饰文化变迁和服饰文化景观从不同层面反映了人地关系规律。岭南服饰从最初的土著越人服饰到以汉服饰文化为主体，经过了一个漫长的历史变迁过程，反映了不同历史时期岭南的人地关系。其中自然地理环境是服饰风格特点形成的稳定、长期起作用的力量，而人文地理因素，特别是导致朝代更替或发生重大历史事件的政治因素，是服饰变迁的强大动因。岭南服饰历史文化景观主要分为物质和非物质服饰文化景观，这些景观通过时空的组合与分布、功能的协调与整合反映了不同时期人与环境的关系。3、岭南服饰在形成发展过程中经历了不断的传播过程，即包括服饰在岭南的传入和传出。在这个过程中，不但岭南服饰文化内涵不断得到充实与提高，形成有地方特色的岭南服饰文化体系，在全国占有重要一席之地，而且对周边甚至海外服饰产生很大影响，作出过重要贡献，这种历史作用至今仍在发扬光大。4、文化区是一种空间单位，以不同地区人群中盛行文化特征的差异划分的。岭南服饰历史文化内部区划分为汉族服饰文化区和少数民族服饰文化区。相同的文化区内具有相对同质的服饰历史文化特质、景观和风格，每个文化区又可划分若干个文化亚区，即粤中广府服饰历史文化亚区、粤东北－粤北客家服饰历史文化亚区和粤东－琼雷福佬服饰历史文化亚区以及岭南各少数民族服饰历史文化亚区，以细化区域内部分异。岭南服饰文化区划反映了岭南服饰文化的空间差异与分布规律。...

【外文摘要】　 The study on dress culture is now still at the beginning and exploring period in china. Discussing the relationships between dress and its geographical environment is a weak research field Cultural Geography. The following factors as remote geographical situation, special resources, tardier economic development and freguent culture interchange between China and foreign countries form the historical characters of its dress culture, such as fitting in with the geographical environment and the social development, combining various cultures and leading the tide of modern dress, etc. Therefore, it is of great importance in theory and in practice to take it as a research object. The main purposes of this paper are to find its historical geographical background of the formation of dress culture in Lingnan and to restore its historical cultural landscape of dress in Lingnan. It explores the relationships between the landscape and its origin geographical environment. It is supposed to make historical geographical research be substantial in content and at the same time to follow its good tradition of serving the local culture and economy.According to the relative theories and methods of the following subjects as historical geography, cultural geography, dress geography and folklore, it takes the historical changes of the dress culture in Lingnan as its longitude and the relationships between the dress in Lingnan and its historical environment as its latitude. The following research methods as document research、charts、historical profiles and field work, ect. are used to collect and arrange the materials in the research of the historical dress culture in Lingnan. Here are some conclusions:1、The formation and development of the dress culture in Lingnan is influenced both by its historical natural geographical conditions and its historical human geographical conditions. The historical natural geographical conditions play an important role in the development of the dress culture in Lingnan at the beginning of its formation period. The historical human geographical conditions encourage the development of the dress culture in Lingnan, which in certain circumstances, play a decisive role. The organic combination of them provides a necessary basis of the start of historical culture, the formation of cultural landscape and its regional differences.2、The changes and landscapes of dress culture in Lingnan show the rule of the relationships between human and nature from various aspects. The development of dress culture from the dress of Pre-Qin Arorigines to the Han dress as its main trend in Lingnan goes through a long history of changes. It shows the relationships between man and nature in Lingnan at different historical periods. Natural geographical environment plays a long and stable role in the formation of dress styles and features. The human geographical factors, especially the political factors of great historical events are of great importance in the changes of dress.The historical landscape of dress culture in Lingnan is mainly divided into material and immaterial landscape of dress culture, which reflects the relationships between man and nature in different periods through the combination and distribution of time and space and the integration of functions.3、The formation and development of the dress in Lingnan is a process of continuous diffusion, including the input and output of dress in Lingnan. The contents of Lingnan dress culture have been promoted and enhanced in this process, which forms the special dress cultural system in Lingnan and plays an important role in China. It also has a great influence and contribution on its surrounding or even overseas dress. This historical function is still playing its roles nowadays.4、Cultural district is one of the spatial units, divided by the differences of the leading cultural features in the different regions. The historical dress culture in Lingnan can be divided into the Han dress district and the minority one. In the same cultural district, its historical cultural features、cultural landscape and styles are similar. Every cultural district can be further divided into several sub-cultural districts, that is, sub-historical cultural district of Guangfu dress in the middle of Guangdong, sub-historical cultural district of Hakka dress in the northeast and north of Guangdong, sub-historical cultural district of Fulao dress in the east of Guangdong, Qiongzhou and Leizhou areas and sub-historical cultural district of minorities in Lingnan, which indicates the inner differences within one region. The division of dress culture in Lingnan shows the spatial diffences and distribution laws of the dress culture in Lingnan....