赣南地区客家服饰研究

【外文题名】A Study on the Hakka’s Costume in South Jiangxi

【作者】 黄丽芸

【关键词】 赣南客家 客家服饰 客家工艺 客家文化

【外文关键词】 Gannan Hakka Hakka costume Hakka craftwork Hakka culture

【导师姓名】张顺爱

【学位名称】硕士

【学位年度】2010

【学位授予单位】暂无

【所属分类】J523.5

【录入时间】2010-01-01

【全文挂接】 知网挂接 万方挂接 读秀挂接

【摘要】对于拯救客家文物、保护和宣扬客家文化,甚至开展客家风情旅游和开发工艺产品都有着积极影响。本文将根据实地调查,结合文献资料对赣南地区的客家服饰的风格,美学特征,文化内涵进行分析。服饰部分包括男子服饰、女子服饰、儿童服饰、婚丧礼服。客家男子服饰由于和一般汉族男子服饰差异较小,本文只对男子上衣、下装、足服,即对襟短衫、马褂、背心,大裆裤、长袍,草鞋、木屐进行分析。客家女子服饰与其她汉族女子服饰相差较大,尤其是首服、足服及饰品部分甚为丰富,文中泼墨较多。儿童服饰中的童帽是赣南地区比较独特和经典的一个种类,笔者对其种类、造型、结构、装饰工艺、社会功能、纹样寓意等方面进行了详细阐述。婚丧礼服部分介绍了赣南地区独有的人文环境和习俗风情,结合传统婚丧礼仪及风俗习惯,有利于加深对该地区婚丧礼服的理解。第三章主要讲述了服饰制作的三大工艺——织带、刺绣、镶银技术。第四章从客家服饰与中原服饰关系、畲族服饰关系总结出该地区的服饰特点,并从美学角度论证客家服饰具有对称统一、韵律和谐、对比突出的美学特征。本文第五章详细论述了赣南客家服饰传承了我国传统的吉祥文化内涵、包含了强烈的宗族意识。研究民族文化时必须结合该地区的知识、信仰、艺术、法律、道德、习俗以及其他一切能力和习惯的复合整体。赣南地区的客家服饰在受到客家先民历史迁徙因素的影响下,呈现出与古代中原服饰形制相似的特点,即保持了传统的大襟、右衽,同时在其它少数民族服饰的影响下,女子佩饰、发式以及服饰制作工艺表现出多姿多彩的别样风情。赣南地区的客家服饰还受到传统吉祥文化和客家宗族制度的影响,其服饰采用了大量祈福避邪、功名利禄、健康长寿、美满如意等吉祥纹样；在宗族意识的影响下,客家人长期保持了“衫裤”的服饰形制,并将其上升到了族群认同的标志层面,拒绝并排斥外来服饰。赣南地区形成其独具特色的地方服饰是受自然环境、民族迁徙、民间信仰、少数民族杂居、文化特征等各个因素的结果。...

【外文摘要】The Gannan area, in south Jiangxi, consisting of two cities and sixteen counties, is the Hakka’s main residency in China. The local costume has a special and unique style. As a particular label, costume carries each nationality’s cultural connotation, aesthetic taste and reflects its own religious belief, value, conscious state, and art trait. Studying Hakka’s costume is favorable for a better understanding for Hakka’s culture and spirit or characteristics. Meanwhile, it has positive influence on saving Hakka’s artifacts, protecting and broadcasting Hakka’s culture, Hakka’s traveling and launching new products of Hakka.On the basis of field survey and literature data, this thesis is to analyze the style, aesthetic characteristic, cultural connotation of Hakka’s costume. Costume includes four parts of clothing of men, women, children and wedding and funeral. Because of little difference between Hakka’s male clothing and that of the ordinary Han male’s, this article is just to study its edge-edge jacket, mandarin jacket, gilet, trousers, gown, straw sandals, wood shoes. While Hakka female clothing is extraordinary different with Han’s, especially in head, feet adornment and accessories, we will leave a wide edition for it. The hat for children is a unique item in Gannan’s clothing, and it will be written in sorts of classification, design, decoration, social function, patterns and connotation. Wedding and funeral dress will be described behind the Gannan’s traditional custom and environment, which will help strength the perceiving. The chapter four tells the main three craftworks, which are weaving chains, embroidering, and silver inlaying. The chapter five extracts the Hakka costume’s style and character in this area from its relations with Han’s and She tribe’s costume, then deduces that Hakka costume is symmetric, united, rhymed, contrasted in aesthetics aspect. The chapter six in this paper discusses that Gannan costume inherits the Chinese traditional auspicious culture and concludes a strong gens conscious.It refers to knowledge, belief, art, law, ethic, custom, other trait and whole complex when a national culture is studied. Under the influence of Hakka ancestor historical migration, The Hakka’s costume in Gannank keeps a similar construction to Han’s costume, and meanwhile the female accessories, hairstyle and some of the clothing craftwork express a special taste under the influence of minority living with Hakka. The Hakka costume in Gannan is also affected by the traditional auspicious culture and Hakka’s gens stystem, and it adopts lots of patterns of blessing, escaping evil, fame, gain, longevity, happiness and so on. Under the influence of genses’ conscience, Hakka costume has kept a jacket and trousers system for a long time and ascends it to a mark of clan identification, refusing the outer clothing. Gannan forming a unique costume culture is the result of many aspects, which conclude natural environment, economic level, religious belief, aesthetics taste, and minorities....